Crab Butter, known as Tu Huang You, originated in the brothels of Suzhou as a delicacy crafted by courtesans to entertain their patrons. It later evolved into a method of preserving crab for off-season enjoyment, serving as a practical solution to savor crab flavors long after the crab season ended. In eras without refrigeration, lard played a crucial role by creating a seal that isolated and preserved the mixture.
Every spring when I return home from Beijing, my mother prepares two jars of homemade Crab Butter for me to bring back. The ingredients include: 500g crab roe, an appropriate amount of yellow wine, salt to taste, 3 slices of ginger, 100g lard, 100g vegetable oil, sugar to taste, and white pepper to taste. To prepare, begin by washing and cutting the lard into small pieces, and slice the ginger and garlic. For this recipe, I use a blend of half crab roe and half crab paste, sourcing pre-extracted versions from a reliable Taobao seller I have purchased from about ten times. Render the lard by heating it with a small amount of water over medium heat until the fat turns into golden bits, which can be reserved for other dishes. Add vegetable oil to balance the richness; a ratio of 1:1 or 2:1 of lard to vegetable oil is typical. Heat the mixture over high heat to sauté the ginger and garlic, then remove them. Reduce to low heat and add the crab roe, gently spreading it apart without vigorous stirring. If crab paste is included, ensure it is cooked until no longer sticky. Stir clockwise with a spatula for three minutes, then pour in three tablespoons of yellow wine and two tablespoons of vinegar along the edge of the pan. Continue stirring clockwise. After five minutes, incorporate sugar, salt, white pepper, and optional broth. Keep stirring until the crab roe turns a vibrant orange-red, then turn off the heat. Allow it to cool before bottling and refrigerating. Based on my experience making this seven or eight times, using pure vegetable oil is ideal for immediate use in fillings for buns or dumplings, while pure lard supports long-term storage. A half-and-half blend is perfect for mixing with rice or noodles, offering a rich aroma, and one jar typically lasts about half a month.